Let me start by saying that yes, these pictures stink. I blame my wife's camera, but it will do for now. Anyway, here is how I did it:
1) The Bolter: cut the bitz off the front of the bolter & scoot the gun barrel down. Discard the bitz highlighted in yellow (this includes all of the sight parts at the top). The cuts are highlighted in red.
2) The Flamer: cut off the flamer canister and save it for later. Next, follow the line made by the flamer barrels. This is where you will cut and remove the lower half.
3) Combining Them: This is easy, just glue the bottom of the flamer to the top of the bolter.
Next, file down that flamer canister so that one side is flat and glue it towards the back. In retrospect, I think I should have filed down the top of the bolter a bit to lower the profile of the gun, but overall it works.
Cheers,
Jeff C.
2009-01-26
2009-01-23
Converting Your Black Reach SM Captian
Let me start by saying that I think this is a great looking model, but I prefer my Captains to be better armed and wearing a helmet. They do after all need to set a good example for the troops. Remember that scene with Rico & the new recruits from Starship Troopers, always wear your helmet around live fire. Well enough talk, here is how to do it get your captain looking sharp with Storm Shield to boot.
Here is what you need: AOBR Captain, Storm Shield & any other fancy bitz you want to include. I used a Storm sheild from the old Terminator box set and puter bitz from the Captain Sicarius blister. In the end, I went back to the original AORB banner because the one pictured below was blowing in the opposite direction of his cloak, not good.
Step 1: Remove the bolter & off with his head. Luckily, the bolter cut doesn't have to be done particularly well because the storm sheild is going to cover up this section.
Step 2: Attach the storm shield. If your using the same type of Storm Shield that I am, the wrist will meet the cloak where you see highlighted. Add a bit of glue and it's a really easy fit.
Step 3: Glue everything else on. Huzzah! You now have a Space Marine Capetian ready to slay the enemies of the emperor, and anyone else who gets in his way...
Here is what you need: AOBR Captain, Storm Shield & any other fancy bitz you want to include. I used a Storm sheild from the old Terminator box set and puter bitz from the Captain Sicarius blister. In the end, I went back to the original AORB banner because the one pictured below was blowing in the opposite direction of his cloak, not good.
Step 1: Remove the bolter & off with his head. Luckily, the bolter cut doesn't have to be done particularly well because the storm sheild is going to cover up this section.
Step 2: Attach the storm shield. If your using the same type of Storm Shield that I am, the wrist will meet the cloak where you see highlighted. Add a bit of glue and it's a really easy fit.
Step 3: Glue everything else on. Huzzah! You now have a Space Marine Capetian ready to slay the enemies of the emperor, and anyone else who gets in his way...
2009-01-17
Converting Your Assault on Black Reach Dreads
With AOBR (assault on black reach) dreadnoughts being so plentiful and cheap, it's time to start one of those ridiculous lists I've always wanted to try. Oh yes, the six dread list. Now the AOBR dreads are great, but we can't have 6 identically posed dreads stalking the battle field, so it's time to get converting. Here is what I did:
Click HERE for info on converting the Plasma Cannon.
Dread #1: This guys was the most basic of the conversion. The skull on the right front was filed off and replaced with a scroll and the banner on the left leg was replaced with a loincloth, both from the SM sprue. The extra smoke stack on the back was made from the dread's multimelta barrel with a filed down ammo pouch used to cover the gap. More pictures of that below.
Dread #2 & 3: These guys had a little more work done. The biggest change is the stance. The legs were cut right below the joint and shifted very slightly forward or backward to give it the illusion of walking. Pictures showing how to do that are below. In addition to the stance, etched brass icons from the basing kit and plastic card exhaust pipes were added.
Dread #4 & 5: These guys are my favorites. They have the altered stance, brass icons, and exhaust pipes of the previous models. The thing that makes these guys stand out are the banners. No only do they have banners on top, but banners were used on their waists to model their SM counterparts.
Click HERE for info on converting the Plasma Cannon.
Dread #1: This guys was the most basic of the conversion. The skull on the right front was filed off and replaced with a scroll and the banner on the left leg was replaced with a loincloth, both from the SM sprue. The extra smoke stack on the back was made from the dread's multimelta barrel with a filed down ammo pouch used to cover the gap. More pictures of that below.
Dread #2 & 3: These guys had a little more work done. The biggest change is the stance. The legs were cut right below the joint and shifted very slightly forward or backward to give it the illusion of walking. Pictures showing how to do that are below. In addition to the stance, etched brass icons from the basing kit and plastic card exhaust pipes were added.
Dread #4 & 5: These guys are my favorites. They have the altered stance, brass icons, and exhaust pipes of the previous models. The thing that makes these guys stand out are the banners. No only do they have banners on top, but banners were used on their waists to model their SM counterparts.
2009-01-02
Making A Dreadnought Plasma Cannon
So you've got your new Assault on Black Reach (AOBR) box set and are staring at the new Dread. How sweet, a brand new dread with close combat weapon & multimelta... wait a second, a multimelta... really!?!?!?! Yea, those are the brakes. Those AOBR Dreads are good looking and dirt cheap ,but they come with a multimelta, probably the most pointless weapon in the Dread arsenal. Here's how to make some lemonade out of lemons.
Here is what you need: AOBR Dread Multimelta arm & Space marine Plasma Cannon
Step 1: Start chopping up that multimelta. Cut off the barrel and the hose.
Step 2: Carve out a place for your plasma cannon to fit into. Start by filing down the leftover barrel parts (pic 1). Next, file/cut the section in yellow until it is flush with the rest of the indention. I like to start by making a cut with my hobby knife that I use as a guide.
Step 3: Start chopping up that plasma cannon. Start by cutting off the space marine hand bits from the front of the plasma cannon (pic 1 & 2). Next, cut off the back of the gun along with the shoulder pad and the top bit. Save the top part for later, you might need it. The last bit of had left at the trigger will be removed when you start trying to fit the cannon into the arm.
Step 4: it's time to connect them. This is the worst part, lots of filing. Cut that left over bit of hand out and start test fitting. Keep filing until it fits. Highlighted below are the areas that I had to file down, the green to the most filing work.
Step 5: gluing the front of the plasma cannon on and attaching the hose. Make sure your cannon is straight & glue that bad boy in. Cut the hose where it meets up with the old melta hose connection. Remember that odd little top piece that we were saving for later, glue it in next to the hose to hide the connection point. I also Used a purity seal to cover the gap between the cannon and the arm.
There you have it, a brand spankin' new plasma cannon to rain super heated death upon your opponents heads.
Cheers,
Jeff C.
Here is what you need: AOBR Dread Multimelta arm & Space marine Plasma Cannon
Step 1: Start chopping up that multimelta. Cut off the barrel and the hose.
Step 2: Carve out a place for your plasma cannon to fit into. Start by filing down the leftover barrel parts (pic 1). Next, file/cut the section in yellow until it is flush with the rest of the indention. I like to start by making a cut with my hobby knife that I use as a guide.
Step 3: Start chopping up that plasma cannon. Start by cutting off the space marine hand bits from the front of the plasma cannon (pic 1 & 2). Next, cut off the back of the gun along with the shoulder pad and the top bit. Save the top part for later, you might need it. The last bit of had left at the trigger will be removed when you start trying to fit the cannon into the arm.
Step 4: it's time to connect them. This is the worst part, lots of filing. Cut that left over bit of hand out and start test fitting. Keep filing until it fits. Highlighted below are the areas that I had to file down, the green to the most filing work.
Step 5: gluing the front of the plasma cannon on and attaching the hose. Make sure your cannon is straight & glue that bad boy in. Cut the hose where it meets up with the old melta hose connection. Remember that odd little top piece that we were saving for later, glue it in next to the hose to hide the connection point. I also Used a purity seal to cover the gap between the cannon and the arm.
There you have it, a brand spankin' new plasma cannon to rain super heated death upon your opponents heads.
Cheers,
Jeff C.
2009-01-01
Tactica
Here are the gems of wisdom ole Jeff B and I have gathered from our weekly games. Currently the posts are mostly tweaked army lists but soon there will be articles on rock hard units you'll either want to have or want to kill.
IG Army List - Raining Templates
Necron Army List - Immortal Monoliths
IG Army List - Raining Templates
Necron Army List - Immortal Monoliths
Tutorials
Here is a list of all the painting and modeling tutorials to date. They range from plasma cannons to monoliths and everything in between.
Making a Dreadnought Plasma Cannon
Converting the Black Reach Dreadnoughts
Converting the Black Reach Captain
Painting Orks
Painting Rust
Painting the Monolith
Stripping Paint - Simple Green
Drilling Our Gun Barrels
Water Effects - Toxic Sludge
Magnetizing the Land Raider
Head Swap - Dremel Style
Making a Dreadnought Plasma Cannon
Converting the Black Reach Dreadnoughts
Converting the Black Reach Captain
Painting Orks
Painting Rust
Painting the Monolith
Stripping Paint - Simple Green
Drilling Our Gun Barrels
Water Effects - Toxic Sludge
Magnetizing the Land Raider
Head Swap - Dremel Style
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