Quick Tip #3 - Head Swap Dremel Style

Or...How To Perform A Head Transplant When You Have Two Identical Pewter Dudes

All you need is a pair of clippers, a hobby knife, and a Dremel.









Step One - Off With His Head: First let me tell you that it is a good idea to have two sets of clippers, one for pewter and one for plastic. (Using clippers on pewter gouges the blades, leaving unattractive tool marking on your plastic.) When cutting, place one blade of the clipper under the chin and the other behind his head. SNIP!

Step Two - Clean Up the Neck Cavity: Once you've beheaded the poor Sergent, its time to tidy up for Dremeling. Clip off the chin (or any other easily removable section) and file down the top, nice and flat.

WARNING: the drimmel bit will occasionally jump off the area that you are filing down so make sure to wear gloves!!!

Step Three- It's Carving Time: Use the larger Dremel bit that comes with the basic kit (shown left.) Place the model on his side, as below, keep a firm grip on the Dremel (speed 8) and start widening and deepening that bad boy like you're prepping birds for turducken.








Step Four- Head Transplant: Once your done Dremeling, clean up any extra flash with a hobby knife and glue on the new head. Add some different weapons and change the direction of the head to further differentiate between the two models.










Happy beheading! (for the Emperor of course.)
Jeff C.

40k Objectives

There are three reasons to make your own objectives:
1) Extra points for painting score in tournaments
2) Extra points for sportsmanship score in tournaments (offer to let you opponents use them)
3) The "Oooo you made your own objectives, cool...." effect from your opponent

Simple Objectives:

Guns: Anytime we play the 2+D3 objective game, the scenario is always "Get Da Bosses GUN!" To make some of your own, use small WHFB bases with some plastic-card added to the top and a few left over guns.



Explosives: would work great for a Chaos or Convict IG Army. Your army could either be arming or disarming them depending on the scenerio.

They're made just like the gun objectives with WHFB shields used for the explosive. The handles are leftover plastic-card and bitz. The ones with cloth handles are made from Tau bonding knives.



Assorted Generic: a listening post, weapons cache and downed waaagh banner. Made from leftover IG bitz, assorted leftover guns, ork glyf from the nob blister, respectively.





Advanced Objectives

Forge World Fighta Bomba Pilot: I didn't want to alter this sweet model, but to play him, I would have had to convert. As an objective, I get to use him as is in every game. In a bigger game he may play the part of a stripped down nob.





Necron Objectives: The fluff behind them is that they are a pesky Inquisitor retinue snooping around the downed tomb ship. I put destroyed necron bitz on their bases so that they would tie in nicely with my necron army.

Also, when I do that Inquisitor army I want, I'll already have a head start.

Magnetized Land Raider

This thing was a beast, but well worth it. Now I have a Redeemer, Crusader, & once I get some more bitz, a standard Land Raider. The only out-of-the-ordinary things I used were the magnets and a 1/8" drill bit for the pinvice. The primary magnet used was the D040A ~ 1/8" Dia x 1/25" Thick from www.amazingmagnets.com. I also used D032A ~ 1/8" Dia x 1/32" Thick magnets for very thin peices or as a gap filler if two magnets didn't touch. All of my magnets come from www.amazingmagnets.com, because you get a free sample pack of magnets everytime you order.















Magnetizing the Sponsons Supports: The basics: (1) Cut nobs off the sponson support (2) Drill 1/8" hole through center of the sponson support (3) insert two or more 1/25" Thick magnets

More Details: This is where the sponson work begins. The nobs mentioned above are the cylidrical pieces that the guns would attach to. When placing the magnets into the support, using thicker magnets might work a bit better. Just make sure that there are exposed magnets on both sides of the support. If you're short on magnets & only want to use 2, you can fill the center (between the magnets) with green stuff. Make sure that their polarities attract.






Magnetizing the Redeamer Sponsons: The basics: (1) widen the flamer & fuel tank holes with a 1/8" drill bit. (2) attach 1/25" Thick magnets (3) glue the tanks & gun together.

More Details: This is not a scary as it looks. I suggest that you assemble the flamer parts & the fuel tank parts before you drill. After drilling and attaching the magnets, it's time to attach the flamer and the fuel tank with the back peice. MAKE SURE THAT THE POLARITIES OF THE GUN MATCHES THE SUPPORT!!!!






Magnetizing the Redeemer Sponsons: The basics: (1) widen the gun & sensor holes with a 1/8" drill bit. (2) attach 1/25" Thick magnets

More Details: Not much to say here. Drill & attach magnets. Make sure the magnets are attracted to the support.







Magnetizing the Gun Armor Plate: The basics: (1) attach 1/25" thick magnet behind the notch on the flamer(2) drill a 1/8" hole behind the notch in the hurricane bolter so that the magnet sinks in a bit and attach the magnet (3) attach 1/32" thick magnets onto armor plate (4) stack 1/32" thick magnets if there is a gap between the gun & the armor

More Details: This one took a bit more work than I had expected. The redeemer bit was easy. Just glue the magnet behind the notch. I had to use 2 so that it would reach the armor plate's magnet. The hurricane bolter was a bit more complicated. You have to drill a hole so that the magnet sinks in a bit. The reason for this is that the armor plate & the hurricane bolter have no space between them. Make sure to use the 1/32" thick magnets for the armor plates. This will help keep the armor plate from sticking out when it is with the hurricane bolter.













Magnetizing the top hatches: The basics: (1)make an anchor for the hatch with sprue, (2) use the sprue in the hatch to hold the magnet, (3) attach the magnets.

More Details: Let me start by saying that this is not necessary. These hatches will stay in by themselves for the most part, but I'm anal & don't want them falling out.
The first step here is to make something for the magnet to anchor to. I used sprue sections with the knobby bits at the end. This is important to do because the hatch sticks out about an 1/8th inch when in place.
**If you do a bit of planning (unlike myself), you can avoid having to use tweezers to glue in the sprue.






The Second step is the hatch itself. I just keep the sprue that comes in the hatch and clipped off the center circle. This will be where you attach the magnet.






Step three, magnets! I like the 1/32" Thick magnets here. They are less expensive and you don't need a strong hold. I use green stuff & superglue for the bottom magnet. It helps to close the gap between the top & bottom magnet. The hatch magnet is just superglued in. If you accidently cut out the sprue from the hatch, you can use a bit of sprue with greenstuff to make up the distance from the top of the hatch to the bottom magnet.





The Assault Cannon: This guy was a bit tuffer. The bullet-feeds force you to put the magnet directly in the center. Attaching the bottom anchor took two peices of sprue. I had to lower the anchor by adding some plastic card to the knobby bits. This kept the bullet feed from bumping into the anchor. The bit of sprue with the magnet on it is a corner peice that was long enouph to reach the magnet in the Assult Cannon.












Magnetizing the Antenna: The basics: (1) Cut the anetnna from the base (2) Drill 1/8" hole in each, (3) attach 1/32" Thick magnets

More Details: This is not essential, but you'll be glad you did it when you see everyone else has broken and bent antennas. Start by cutting the antenna from the base and drilling a 1/8" hole in each. Use the 1/32" Thick magnets & be careful to drill in center. I would use the Barrel Drilling Quick Tip technique. Now attach the magnets with a bit of superglue & your done. You now have a break away antenna & have entered the relm of magnet overkill. Welcome to the fold.





Magnetizing the Front Exit: The basics: (1) use sprue for magnet anchor op of the upper door (2) attach magnet to the lower door (3) stack magnets there is to much of a gap

More Details: Let me first say that I am not going to paint the inside because that is where I'm going to keep the extra sponsons and accesopries that I'm not using. Not much to say here other than it's a bit of a pain and stacking the small magnets to fill the gap is really helpful.








Here is a look at the magnets from their site:

D040A ~ 1/8" Dia x 1/25" Thick NdFeB Disc Magnet, Ni-Cu-Ni plated. (1 Item = 85 magnets) Product Part #: D040A (Qty: 1 x US$6.80)

D032A ~ 1/8" Dia x 1/32" Thick NdFeB Disc Magnet, Ni-Cu-Ni plated. (1 Item = 100 magnets) Product Part #: D032A (Qty: 1 x US$7.00)

Necron "Immortal Monoliths" List

Alright, I've been playing Necron for quite a while now & I've tried out quite a few different army compositions, but this is the one I like. It is internationally called: Not-the-Most-Awesome-of-All-Time-But-Totally-Dead-Hard-Necron-List

Lord with ResOrb: Sstays back with the Warriors and keeps those "We'll Be Back" rolls coming.
Lord with ResOrb & Veil: Starts out with his classmates, but teleports (usually with immortals) when the time is right.
Warriors - 3 groups of 10: Meat and potatoes fighters. Support squads and objective holders.
Immortals - 2 groups of 10: This is the one-two punch. Anytime you have 20 toughness 5 dudes with 24" range S5 weapons, it's time to worry. They can handle themselves in close combat and can put out a hell of a lot of fire power. Oh yeah, did I mention that there are 20 of them? Being Toughness 5, they only have to worry about power weapons and Railguns. Everything else is a cake walk, because they WILL be back.
Flayed Ones - 5 total: These are your harassers. They start in reserve and come in on a flank. They won't win the game for you, but they are a serious distraction.
Monoliths - 2 total: Ahhhh Yeaaaah... This is where it gets "Yo mama so ugly she looks out the window and got arrested for mooning." And yes, you read it right, TWO monoliths. They are slow, ponderous, BUT nearly indestructible. They have to many battlefield roles to count. They shoot, keep you out of close combat, give you extra WBB rolls, teleport across the battlefeild, sit on objectives, and generally strike fear into the soul of your opponent.

General Tactics:

• Immortals set up in front with the VeilRes-Lord. They take the brunt of the fire from your enemies, which is fine cause they're tough as nails.
  
• Around turn 4 or 5, veil them where needed.
  
• Warriors set up behind the Immortals with the Res-Lord for supporting fire and grabbing objectives. Remember that you can string them out so that units on different objectives can be in range of the ResOrb. (If you have to sacrifice a unit, these are the guys for the job.)
• Mololiths are usually on the flanks or in front depending on terrain. These monstrosities keep a defensive bubble around your main force. If the bad guys want to close on you they have to get within the 24" template range. Good for you, bad for them. (I will on occasion deep stike a monolith. This is usually against Tau (no surprise there).)
  
• Once the Monolith arrives on the table make sure it is in their face. Then next turn, Veil up one squad of immortals and suck the other through the Monolith. Huzzahh... now your enemy has 20 Immortals up in their face.
  
• Lastly, keep the Flayed-Ones in reserve and pop them out on a flank as a distraction. They usually die, but every once in a while they can cause some serious damage & with the WBB rolls, they are a pain to wipe out!